#126 in my Parisian challenge of trying every Michelin Stars (I did finish the challenge in 365 days, as I tried every 3 Stars in France, but I’m continuing…) Follow me for all the reviews and updates.
This a new 2023 Michelin Star.
So what’s interesting here?
First French, then Japanese.
I’m first going to get rid of the trivia. This restaurant is located where previously shined Astrance (now relocated). So don’t be surprised if you recognize the address. The interior has been renewed, it’s in line with the objective : the focus is on the plate, the rest must beautiful but not distracting. Also the chef was previously at the Pilgrim, and the maître d’hôtel at the Clarence in Lille (I went in both and wrote reviews).
It’s a Japanese chef playing more on the French side. This is a crowded space, and crowded with talents (and one that I love particularly, because I always love to see the reflections on the French cuisine through the lights and the eyes of a foreigner).
So is it more Japanese or French? Or how much French is it? Contrary to a quick first look, and after reflections, I end up on the French side.
Which is a bit surprising to me because it was not the case in his previous place, and furthermore, if you look at the pictures (or better, watch the videos), you may think otherwise. Or at least, he’s in the middle tilting to the Japanese side.
But no. Because the essence is French, and then he adds some Japanese twists. Let me develop that. You can easily imagine a perfectly executed very French version of each dishes, and then you can add some very personal Japanese notes in the form of addition or substitution. To put it in another more classical gastronomical way, he’s more into adding than subtracting, later being more classically the Japanese way. It’s subtle, yet the philosophy is there. And you could argue that it’s not necessarily the case for the dessert and some appetizers. I would agree.
Still, you’re in a French restaurant (meaning French haute gastronomy, not traditional French), with a chef adding some of his Japanese vocabulary to create his unique expression.
The crowd was foodies, casual chic dressed. Then again, it was right after they got the star…
I did appreciate his take, and I did appreciate that he’s not shy in expressing himself.
I’ll come back most likely to try a bigger menu to see how it goes, and because I’ve also spotted wines I’d like to try on the wine list.
Most likely it will be, at least, a solid star new year.